RADIKON www.radikon.it
TOM GRENNAN https://www.facebook.com/TomGrennanMusic/
THE NATIVE GRAPES
PIGNOLO 3D
is once again shifting through the gears.
It’s a murky, misty, mornin’, early Feb 2017 and our little Red 500 nimbly turns through the final foggy hairpins on our way up to meet Saša Radikon. The winter rain has finally arrived in Friuli. After almost 2 months of nothing but blue skies and dry sub-zero temperatures, browned as if scorched by the summer sun, the hills are thirstily lapping up the moisture.
The RADIKON winery has long been considered one of the worlds great wine-making pioneers, which is why we’re here to chat about our current go-to native red.
Yes, RADIKON produce a rare Pignolo.
On arrival it’s Saša’s mum, Suzana, who provides the warm greetings, a seat at the kitchen table and a freshly brewed espresso. Saša will be along shortly. Having become a Dad for the 2nd time just before Christmas, it’s understandably a busy time in the RADIKON household.
PIGNOLO sparks curiosity and fascination in everyone that crosses its path. Suzana happily recounts how the variety captured Stanko’s imagination back in the ’90’s. Infact it was 1998 when he planted the first parcel, circa 3,000sqm, close to the woods on the southwest facing vineyard just below the Cellar. Here we’re talking 180 metres above sea level with steep gradients and a density of 9,000 vines per hectare. Soil composition is principally Marl, known locally as ‘Ponca’, with a valuable clay component.
As native grapes grow, PIGNOLO is a complicated character. Time and again it proves itself to be one of the most idyosyncratic and downright fussy vines in the yard. It really is as though it chooses when and where. Suzana explains to us how Stanko initially decided upon an alberello style cultivation system. It works exceptionally well with their RIBOLLA but PIGNOLO just would not comply. Yields were significantly uneven and low. Undeterred by the challenge, the Radikon’s opted to switch to Guyot and almost straight away the vines showed signs of appreciation. “With Pignolo, we’ve found there is so much trial and error,” said Saša , “we learn something new every vintage”.
Here in the eastern hills of Friuli Venezia Giulia you win some, you lose some. It’s one experience shared by each of the producers we’ve met these past 7 months. Nevertheless, with as many as 39 winery’s in production, this once almost extinct native red surely has an outstanding future ahead.
In RADIKON, Pignolo has surely found one of the great artisan winemakers.
Eager as ever to uncover more of the mysteries of this majestic little berry, we head to the Cellar. One after the other, from both used barrique and tonneaux, Saša began sampling what became a ‘FIVE vintage sequence’ from 2010 to 2014. Honestly a Pignolo barrel tasting such as this is uniquely trippy, indeed beyond compare. Imagine a studio encounter with the likes of Dylan, and him playing you a few tracks that he’s currently working on…eh, you catch our drift!
It almost goes without saying, these wines are still very much in their evolutionary youth. Nevertheless we immediately appreciate the distinct expressions of Pignolo. First up the 2010 (firm structure, toasty, incense and spice), next the 2012 (quite surprisingly youthful, still showing refreshing dark berry fruit, nice balance & structure), then 2013 (here the evolution seems to mirror more the vintage ’10), 2014 (wow, so young yet such poise, elegance, approach-ability, delicate fruit). For our final sip we turn to steel where Saša is currently assessing progress of vintage 2011 (fresh, polished grip, it will return to the barrel for another spell). Naturally today one can’t be definitive. By the time these wines are bottled and then laid down for a further 5 years… they will have evolved immeasurably. Yet, already… they have impressive age-worthy credentials and yes, those ripe, powdery tannins. That’s some achievement with 5 young Pignolo. Each vintage was afforded the hang time necessary to achieve ‘phenolic maturity’ in the vineyard. And Phenolic maturity is key for Pignolo. Of course holding out in the vineyard is real risk and reward stuff come harvest time, such a risk that most prefer not to take. But the Radikon philosophy doesn’t stand off such challenges. On the contrary, to produce their truly exceptional wines, they relish it, there is no compromise when keeping everything as real as it gets.
The profound joy in all of these unreleased vintages is that they are wines that Stanko and Saša worked on together. So much wonderful history lying in wait for future celebration. Interestingly Saša mentioned that only during the most recent vintages has he really begun to understand why Stanko had such unwavering belief in the potential of PIGNOLO. With a smile he added “You learn a lot punching down the cap 4 times a day.” How refreshing, reassuring and rewarding. Hats Off to Stanko & Saša!
RADIKON’s current bottle release is their stunning PIGNOLI 2004
Kinda puts into perspective the magic of the moments we’ve just shared with Saša and Suzana.
All the while we spied the youngest, a barrique of PIGNOLI 2016, keeping a careful eye on proceedings…. but that, as they say, is for another blessed day……SWEET HALLELUJAH !
Sincere thanks again to Saša and Suzana….and a shout out for the creative musical talents of TOM GRENNAN !