Regularly we find ourselves literally struck by the ‘unknown’.
Always when least expected. It barrels up, clips your ear, knocks you in an earth-bound spin. Yet, within an inch of impact…that very same ‘unknown’ grabs hold, cradling your bliss-filled fall.
Yeah well, that’s sort of like how it happened for us with the De Vescovi Ulzbach Vigilius 2012.
Clearly Giulio De Vescovi, who runs the family winery, knows a thing or three about the art of wine-making surprise. Located in the Italian region of Trentino, north of the city of Trento is where you’ll find the townland of Mezzocorona. And it’s here, close to the meeting of the Adige River and the Noce tributary that Giulio’s ancestors have been producing wines for more than three centuries.
TRENTINO is the native home of TEROLDEGO. While being an aged-old vine it actually wasn’t until very recently that genetic analysis revealed how this black, ‘bloom-dusted’ grape plays a seriously significant role in a noble and very tasty family tree.
Grab a load of this – Pinot as a possible grandparent, Dureza as a certain bro / sis, Syrah as a certain nephew/niece, Lagrein and Marzemino as 2 of its kids, a grandchild in Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, a great grandchild in Corvina Veronese and a great, great grandchild in Rondinella. Waahoo! Jose Vouillamoz rocks yet again.
How the heck has TEROLDEGO remained unknown to our palate until now?
On the eye you’ll see deep, rich ruby tones verging toward light garnet on the rim. Interestingly we noted how the cork had visibly taken on strong colour telling us something about the antocyanin / colour compounds of Teroldego. It’s a real colour pleaser.
Quite intense and distinct. Aromatic with it too. Light floral perfume with ripe red fruit including raspberry and red plum. There’s a little spice and something peppery going on that got us thinking about ‘fresh rocket’. And then a recognisable but unidentifiable aroma! Shout out to Ian D’Agata for his prompt of quinine and ink. Man that was a trippy learnin’ curve. This is completely unlike any other red we’ve tried lately.
Vigilius is dry with soft supple tannins and fresh acidity giving it a clean steely edge. Its medium body is both surprising and pleasing. Yes, there’s a little heat coming through but it’s dignified in its persistence. Balance is really quite unique with delicate fruit, fragrant herb, sweet tobacco and spice. And then there’s a kinda medium-rare beefiness lounging around on a mineral bed. It’s smooth. It’s harmonic. There is nothing exaggerated about this top quality linear red. Elegant & artistic.
And they can be found on the Campo Rotaliano flood plain, which sits between their home town of Mezzocorona, Grumo di San Michele all’Adige to the south and Mezzolombardo to the west. What makes the Teroldego Rotaliano DOC so special is that it’s one of the very few ‘specific grape variety CRU’ in Italy, which means under this cru discipline local winemakers can only produce TEROLDEGO – 100% in purezza. Awesome stuff.
But enough to declare that the linear style of De Vescovi Ulzbach VIGILIUS ’12 is as uniquely stimulating and heady as any juice we’ve tasted lately. And its allure… as captivating and intoxicating as the charmed magnetic tones of James Vincent McMorrow.
Suffice to say… LOOK OUT
…especially for those stunning known unknowns, TEROLDEGO & JV McMorrow
You know it’s OK to fall…either we’ll catch you or they will ;)