None more so than the waves of Lambrusco excellence that ebbed and flowed from the Emilia Romagna pavilion. Our experience of these ancient native grapes, of which there are countless varieties, had up to this point been somewhat tainted by the mainly sweet, soft-drink style offerings of decades past.
Y’all know what we mean about ‘the real thing’, right :) Sadly outside of Italy, Lambrusco became a general #TAG for light, fizzy, sweet, red Italian wine. It became a ‘POPSTAR’ whose light then faded, at least in Press and Fine Wine circles. It lost its lustre and its place on the celebrity wine stage.
Done and dusted ? Not by half. Not since tasting a selection of Emilia’s best from #Vintage’13, ’14 & ’15.
The Lambrusco family of grapes is at last on the cusp of redefining itself and not before time we might add. Recognising the identity and value of each family member and turning away from undesirable industrialised brands is bringing Quality back to the table.
No more bland dismissive ‘Lambrusco’ conversations for us. We need to be learning about the family – Lambrusco di Sorbara, Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro, Lambrusco Maestri, Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce, Lambrusco Marani, Lambrusco Viadanese and on the list it goes.
We now know that our previous ignorance was far from bliss. But thankfully those days of a one ‘Lambrusco Hat Fits All’ are sure to become a thing of the past.
Why these two ?
Well simply because we’ve just learned how they produce such distinctly identifiable and contrasting wines.
Sorbara is immediately recognisable by its paler cherry red colour while Grasparossa delights with a more intense deep ruby & purple hues, due to its thicker skin.
Sorbara is most definitely floral while Grasparossa is certainly more intensely fruit driven.
Sorbara is lighter compared to the more fuller, creamier bodied Grasparossa. This is not to say one is better than the other. They are both unique sparkling red experiences. Interestingly you will also begin to sense family harmony. Both grapes have the potential to deliver dry sparklers of structure and balance with fresh acidity, surprisingly active tannins and tasty minerality. Infact tannic structure was one of the single most outstanding and pleasing features of the Lambruschi we tasted, with the Grasparossa definitely delivering that bigger mouth feel. Yet as the perfect counter balance, the elegance and freshness of a Sorbara is absolutely of equal merit.
Vecchia Modena Premium ’15 – Lambrusco di Sorbara 100% mono-varietal
Vigneto Cialdini ’15 – Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro 100% mono-varietal – Special 5 Star Award winner @ Vinitaly 2016
Lambrusco del Fondatore ’14 – Lambrusco di Sorbara 100% mono-varietal : this wine undergoes a classic second fermentation in the bottle and then ageing for an additional 6 months.
Lacrime del Bosco ’15 – Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro 100% mono-varietal
Capriccio di Bacco ’15 – Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro 100% mono-varietal : without added sulphites
Capriccio di Bacco ’13 – Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro 100% mono-varietal : without added sulphites. Check out the evolution for this one. Wow.
Even when the DOC regs still say min. 85% of a particular variety, and many still blend, we applaud all those winemakers who give us the chance to taste such fine 100% mono-varietals. Remember, it’ll make the difference to ask for these mono-varietal Lambruschi by name – LAMBRUSCO DI SORBARA. LAMBRUSCO GRASPAROSSA DI CASTELVETRO.
We’re talking classic yet young, easy going yet vibrant, structured reds. Delicate, dynamic and distinct. No Diggity!
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